Here the simple steps to turning off the Saturation Skip Feature on a Rachio Irrigation Timer and why this feature can be a problem.Read More
Filtering by Category: How to
With the snow soon to begin melting with warmer temps, fortunately you haven’t missed out on too many garden activities, you just going to have to be ready to do some of the chores in a quick fashion because it’s going to change quickly when it does.
Prevention Spraying with Dormant Oil and Copper Fungicide as long as the buds are hard and it’s a day above 40 you can still spray with the dormant rates on the label. If you miss it follow labels instructions on what to do for the different stages of growth for the plants you are spraying for.
Applying Crabgrass Control. You actually have a lot of time for this as in before May. In fact it would be easier to apply and activate when the irrigation water comes on in April vs applying it when the Forsythia bloom and timing it with rain to activate it.
Dormant Pruning for Roses
This can be done as long as the leaf buds have not begun to pop. The basics for pruning roses are to cut them back to 2 feet then remove diseased, damaged, dead and crossing canes. For climbing roses, go ahead and leave tall just remove the diseased, damaged, dead and crossing canes.
Dormant Pruning Fruit and Berries
This can also be done while the buds are hard. To check this you want to feel the bud with your finger. If it’s hard and doesn’t give or squish under light pressure you are good.
Fertilizing your lawn, trees, shrubs and perennials.
Feeding your plants is a good thing but wait until April like normal because the plant will be awake enough to feed upon the fertilizer as well it is easier to water in with your watering systems.
Cutting back ornamental grasses
Cut them down as soon as the snow melts because once it warms up enough they will begin to grow again for the season and you will only be able to cut them back to as far as they have emerged to.
Cutting back perennials
Either pull off the dead material with your hand or cut it down. Unlike grasses it easier to see the new foliage emerge that you work around it and completely remove all the dead stuff.
Round up, Burn Out and other similar herbicides actually work best when temps are in the sixties, so there is plenty of time for this. No need to jump the gun. If the winter weeds are bothering you too much, you can always pull or hoe them out after the snow has cleared.
This can be down actually any time of year but it is easier to do when the water is on to water the product in. Just remember to weed or spray the area really good beforehand.
Planting trees, berries and fruit trees
Your time will be short for bare root stuff but potted and B&B trees you have plenty of time.
Planting shrubs and perennials
Most of these plants are potted and can be planted year round. So once the ground is workable again until it’s over 90 you can plant these.
Annual flowers like petunias and marigolds its best to plant those more toward May when the ground warms up. Primroses and pansies would be good to plant when the snow clears.
Here are some videos on pruning berries going into spring. Enjoy!
A common question we get is when to prune your grasses for winter. In reality it can be as soon as that plant dies back to the ground. I personally use the grass’ foliage as a winter interest, so I will wait until the winter winds beat then up into a mess. Then I tie a string around the top and cut back to within an inch or two of the ground. For evergreen grasses, I just clean out the dead foliage. With Pampass grass, I wait until spring, using it’s foliage as a mulch to help it survive winter since it’s more tender than other grasses like Switch grass, Japanese Silver grass or Fountain grasses in our area. Below is a video I did to demonstrate how to cut back the different types of grasses.
Fall is a great time to start spring off right, be doing a few preventatives.
1. Prevent aphid problems with the Bonide Annual Tree and Shrub Insect Control. By applying in August/September this gives the insecticide time to move up the tree and prevent attacks in Spring.
2. Prevent weeds in from growing in winter and early spring by applying a pre-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent herbicides prevent weed seeds from germinating. Applying now, after clean weeding a flower bed will help prevent winter weeds from germinating and popping up in early spring. Products to look into are Greenlight Amaze, Preen, Round Up Extended Control. Make sure to follow their watering instructions on these product's labels for best results.
3. Prevent drought stress by applying Bonide Wilt Stop to your soft needle and broad leaf evergreens. It works like like lip balm for our lips to keep their leaves from drying out. Also mark when to water your evergreens in your calendar, it would be best to set it to once a month November through March. Use a sprinkler on a hose to water since the irrigation is turned off at that time of year. Yews, photinia, boxwoods, arborvitae, rhodies and others benefit from a monthly drink.
4. Help gain an upper hand with root weevil, by applying Bonide Eight Granules to kill the overwintering larva in the soil, thus reducing their population to help to keep them in check next year.
5. Green up your yellow trees and shrubs that normally should be green by applying the G&B Acid Planting Mix and G&B Harvest Supreme as a mulch or top dressing. By putting about 2 inches thick to slowly leach nutrients into the soil over winter and spring to catch these plants up on nutrients.
6. Clean up disease issues by spraying areas of the yard that had disease issues like rust, powdery mildew, leaf spot, peach leaf curl in November or February with a dormant application of Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide. This sanitizes the plants to give a fresh start next spring. For best results make sure to clean up the diseased leaves as well as when you spray, spray the entire plant including the trunk.
7. Get your lawn off to a great start in spring by applying a fall feeding of a Fertilome Winterizer or Fertilome Greenmaker in September/October. These fertilizers will slowly feed throughout winter to build up the lawns nutrient reserves for a lush push of green growth in spring.
June is the best month to determine the light exposure (generally referred to as exposure) in your yard because it's has the longest days and the sun is at highest angle. By checking now you can better account for hot, sunny summer days that can wreak havoc on shade loving plants or help heat lovers thrive. It also a good idea to check your exposure every couple of years to account for tree growth or other changes.
Here are the steps to checking your exposure.
2. Name the different beds you want to track on the chart.
3. On a leisure day at home, check every hour or so, particularly in the afternoon and fill in the circle for that hour if the bed is shaded.
4. Once it's all filled out you can now research plants online or at the nursery. You are welcome to show our staff the chart and we can show plants as well.
5. Now plant your new landscape additions when you have time or best luck and watch them thrive.
Scale is a sap sucking insect that resembles an oyster shell that either cover branches like the tree pictured above or on the foliage of arborvitae. They can be challenging to control for when their shells are soft, insecticides work; when they are hard they do not. For deciduous trees you can use a systemic insecticide like the Bonide Annual Tree and Shrub insect control. For evergreens it would be better to use a horticultural oil like Bonide All Seasons Oil or Malathion to kill the scales.
An few signs you have scale is if you see shells on branches (not normal), the foliage is sticky or there are a lot of flies hanging around you plants (this also is a sign of aphids too).
Bermudagrass is problem for a lot of Tri-City lawns. It is the grass with deep roots and runs it's tendrils throughout the yard spreading where ever it feels like it. Bayer has come out with Bermudagrass Control for lawns, it is a growth regulator that supresses the growth of the Bermudagrass and lets your preferred lawn to choke it out. Timing is critical on applying it, you want to hit the Bermudagrass when it begins to emerge in early April, then repeat applications on a monthly basis until it is no longer trying to grow. Easy to apply with the Read to Spray Bottle (RTS), just hook to a hose and begin spraying only the affected areas of the lawn. Be sure to let the product dry completely after application, before letting kids or pets back on the lawn. We stock it regularly here at Job's.
This is my thought process on when to yank a rose bush if it has bolted.Read More
While we don't offer U-Cut trees, here is some information on how to have an adventure getting one from the Umatilla National Forest.Read More
Different types of grasses need different types of winter clean up. Alex with Job's Nursery walks you through the different types and how to clean them up.Read More
Google Maps is a wonderful tool for directions but did you know if use it to measure distance?
The answer is yes, yes you can if you house is a couple years old. Simply go to maps.google.com and type in your address. Then click over to satellite view to see you yard details. Then with your mouse or track pad, right click and select "Measure distance." When a white dot appears, drag it to where you want to start your measurement like your house, click then drag the second white dot to where you want to plant the tree. This gives you the distance. Now you can do your research on trees based on their diameter. A tree is best planted half it's diameter away from homes, buildings or pools.
Starting the garden or refreshing the garden starts before you buy a seed or transplant.
Place the garden in a space that is in a sunny spot, afternoon sun is best.
- Figure out your type of garden. Row, raised, or container. Row gardens are where the garden is planted in rows. Raised gardens are a little easier because you build raised beds to house you veggie garden. There are many variations to this garden type, you can organize your crops into rows or grids. The final type is container gardens, they are portable and work anywhere there is sun, water and someone to care for them. Just remember to go with a large enough pot for your crops.
- Work organic matter into the soil, store bought or home prepped compost work great. See our selection of composts by following this link. You want to work the ground with it by turning it, tilling it or raking it.
- Plan out the crops, what are going to use and when. If the spring is mild enough you could plant peas, radishes or quick maturing lettuce, harvest them then plant your tomatoes in the same spot at Mother’s Day. Also consider planting a late summer or fall crop when you have had that fill of tomatoes.
- Consider what you want to start from seeds or transplants. (Buying Seeds or Transplants)
- Now plant that garden. Weed it, care for it and then harvest! Enjoy!
Written by Alex Job
Pruning roses is really easy with the right techniques and tools. What we are going to do is break down pruning to time of year, so you can keep this as a little calendar of care for your roses.
Mid February to Early March-The Rejuvenating Pruning
Recommended Tools: Loppers, pruning shears, canvas or denim coat, thick gloves and eye protection.
The goal for rejuvenating pruning is to refresh the plant by cutting it way back and thinning out some of the older canes.
For Miniatures, Shrub, Floribundas, Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, and David Austin or Romanitca roses, you want to take the loppers and cut the canes down to about 18 inches to 24 inches. Once cut down, remove any damaged, dead or crossing branches with the pruning shears or loppers. Next you will remove about a third of the canes (some older, some newer) with the loppers. For climbers, we generally with leave them trained to the trellis, we just remove the crossing, damaged or dead branches and canes. For Ground Cover Roses, shear back to 2 to 3 feet wide and thin out the damaged, crossing and dead branched.
April till Mid Octoberish- Deadheading and shaping.
Recommended Tools: Pruning Shears, thick gloves and eye protection.
Deadheading and shaping is to remove spent blooms and errant growth. This is recommended to do at least monthly, to promote new blooms on most classes.
For Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, Climbing, David Austin/Romanitca, and Shrub Roses; we recommend grabbing the stem just below the base of the bud (less thorns are there). You want to cut at a 45 degree angle just above the second fifth leaf set. If the plant is leggy or you want to reduce its height you can cut lower than this leaf set.
For Miniatures, grab the stem below the bud and cut just above the first leaf set.
For Ground Cover Roses, generally we don’t worry about dead heading because they are self cleaning and it takes way to long trim out all those blooms. Mainly worry about if encroaching on sidewalks, patios or other plants. Cut back and your done.
October or November-Prepping for Winter.
Recommended Tools: Pruning Shears or Hedge Shears, thick gloves and jacket.
On all classes dead head and tidy up the shape of the plant, so looks decent for the winter. Hedge shears are okay to use on everything except for Climbers, they make the job quick and easy. For climbers, just use pruning shears to selectively remove spent blooms and errant branches.
Roses love our warm, dry climate. Here are some steps to make roses easy to grow.
1. Give roses light, they do best if they get at least 8 hours of sunlight a day. Afternoon sun is best for the warmth to encourage more flowers.
2. Give roses some space, jamming them in tight leads to more disease, bugs and literal pain as you try to prune them. We like to take the height of the rose plant, divide it in half and add 1 to 2 more feet to give us a distance to keep the plant from other roses, structures or other plants. This spacing allows you better access to prune roses when needed. Proper spacing also allows airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease from occurring. It allows beneficials (predator insects, birds, or spiders) to assist in keeping aphids and other bad bugs down.
3. Water roses to keep them blooming. If your not sure if they are getting enough, they communicate by wilting and not blooming a lot. Roses can be watered by drip or overhead sprinklers. If you water overhead, to prevent diseases, make sure the roses go into the night dry.
4. Feed roses for the most blooms and healthy leaves. Start feeding them April 1st and feed as directed until August 15th. Choose a blend geared for roses or flowers, preferably one with trace elements in it to build strong foliage.
5. Mulch roses for winter. In October mound bark or compost 2 to 4 inches around the crown or bud union; this protects the crown from heavy freezes and prevents damage. Using compost instead of bark is a great way to build up the soil with nutrients for the roses to come out winter ready to grow. In March rake the mulch flat. If the roses are plant in gardens of rock mulch you could use landscape edging to create a ring around the plant to allow for mulching.
6. Observe your plants or roses, is simply walking through and making sure things are looking good. If the plant is having a problem (bugs or disease), get it identified then use the proper solution for that problem. If you are not sure what the problem is or the best solution, you can ask us.
Hopefully this will help you take care of your roses easily in the Tri-Cities and make them the fun and enjoyable plant that they truly are.
Written by Alex Job
Establishing Your New Tree from Job’s Nursery
Watering for the First Year
In the first growing season, all new plants (including drought resistant ones) need extra water to allow them root into the surrounding soil. Make sure to deep soak the plants enough with a sprinkler on a hose; so that your soil is moist to 12 inches below the surface of the dirt a day after you have watered. You want your moisture to soak in this deep so that your plant’s roots develop deep and can handle not being watered for a few days in case there are problems with your irrigation system. If in doubt, you need to dig down 12 inches with a shovel, trowel or use a soil probe to make sure you are soaking in deep enough.
A general deep soaking schedule for sand loam soil (the main soil texture for Tri-Cities) it is listed by day time high temperatures
50 ̊F or less once a month for evergreens, check every two months for deciduous plants 50 to 70 ̊F deep soak once every two weeks after foliage emerges or drops on deciduous
70 to 85 ̊F deep soak once a week for one hour
85 to 95 ̊F deep soak twice a week for two hours
Above 95 ̊F soak three times a week for two hours
After all wind storms when temperature highs are above 85 ̊F go check the soil moisture.
**For Clay or compacted soil you will need to shorten you water run time and increase the amount of time your water to get the same effect**
Remember to check your sprinklers, filters and drip emitters regularly. A plugged sprinkler or drip emitter will not a water a plant adequately, if at all. Also to prevent fungal disease, try to avoid watering late evening and night on a daily basis, fungus likes cool and moist conditions.
Removing the Stakes
Remember the stakes, if needed, are to be removed after the tree has been planted for a year.
Good Fertilizing Practices
We recommend using the Fertilome Start N Grow every April 1st and July 1st. Or you can use the Miracle-Gro Fertilizer Tree Spikes every April 1 and August 15. You may have to use an additional fertilizer, or to adjust the ph of the soil.
Plant Problem Diagnosis
Remember when a plant is causing you to question it’s health, please contact us when you notice a problem, not after the plant dies, because most of the time a simple fix is all that is required. We invite you to call, or send us an email with photos of the problem or bring us a bagged sample to help you answer and solve your plant problem.
Excerpt from Job's Nursery's Planting and Care Guide