
Grow bags are essentially a fabric pot place in the ground that a tree grows in. It is intended to speed up our digging practices where instead of
switching from digging tools on the tractor, we can just use on tool to dig both
bare root and grow bagged trees.
Step 1-Digging your hole
We all know how to dig hole in the ground with a shovel, however this step is to
cover hole size and depth as well as any prep work. If you are planting a
plant in a grass area or planting in a flower bed with rock or bark then before
you dig lay a tarp close to the planting area to hold the dirt. It will
keep the rock, grass and bark clean. Never haul the dirt away until you
are finished with the planting project, so you don't carry it out of the yard
only to need bring more back. For a Grow bagged plants the hole size should be
twice the width of the root ball or pot and 2 to 3 inches deeper.

Step 2-Prepping the Soil
Most of the soil in the Tri-City area is sand loam with rock mixed in.
There is not a lot of humus (organic matter) for the tree to naturally grow and
thrive. So to get the plant off to a healthy start use a little compost
(Steer Manure + Bark) comes in bags that are affordable. However you only
want to use 1 part compost to 3 parts soil. Pour half the portion in the
bottom of the hole and work into the soil so that the compost is mixed well into
the dirt. The other half of the compost portion should be mixed with the
fill dirt that will be used to burry the trees root system. Always mix
well when using compost.

Step 3- Removing the Plant from the Grow bag and Scoring the roots.
To remove a plant from the grow bag, lay the plant on its side and cut the grow
bag vertically down, rotate and repeat 2 more times equal distance apart.
Stand the plant upright and peel the bag off in three sections. Lay the
plant back on its side and peel the bottom of the bag off, throw the bag in the
garbage. Next you want to score and tease the roots to encourage it root
out into your soil faster. This is down by using a knife and cutting
vertically down the root ball in 5 places equal distance apart and no deeper
than a 1/2 inch. If there are any roots at the bottom of the root ball
that are winding around the exterior of the ball (when the bad seem was) simply
cut this root(s) off. With the same depth cut an X in the bottom of the
pot. Then lightly with you hand loosen the roots on the outside of the
root ball.

Step 4-Setting the Plant into the hole and checking the depth
Place the plant in the hole, center it, and turn the plant in the direction
that you like to look at. The top of the root ball of the plant should be
even with you yards grade, not above, or below. Then with the extra fill
dirt build a basin or dirt wall around the edge of the hole.

Step 5-Watering the plant in-THE MOST VITAL PART
This is the most critical part of successful planting and that is WATERING
THE PLANT IN.
We are not talking about lightly spraying the plant but literally mudding the
plant in. While the hose is on work the hose into the filled hole and
allow the water to come to the surface and fill the basin. This practice
removes the need to tamp, for the water settles the dirt and gets rid of air pockets
in the soil as well as giving the plant a thorough drink of water.

Step 7-Fertilizer Tablets and Collapsing the Basin
After the water has drained away, now is the time place the fertilizer
tablets we gave you for the plant. Poke these pellets down 3 inches deep
and 3 inches away from the root ball also space the tablets around the hole at
equal distance apart. Next you are now ready to collapse the basin and fix
any points where the dirt did settle. Then haul all remaining dirt away or
work smooth.

Now you have start your new plant out right and remember to repeat these
steps for every plant you plant including the annuals.